Located in the very heart of Andalucía, the beautiful city of Córdoba is as Spanish as could be, yet is also home to the third largest mosque in the world – the majestic Mezquita. Yep, one of the world’s most important and impressive Muslim monuments is situated slap-bang in the heart of Catholic Spain. The reason? Córdoba’s rich and tumultuous history, of course.
Hispanophiles will be well aware of Spain's diverse past - a history that goes far beyond the images we're perhaps most familiar with, farther than the Franco era, the civil war, the creation of Flamenco, the bullfighting, the Armada and the Inquisition... even good old Don Quixote; all mere whippersnappers when compared alongside Spain's – and Córdoba's - ancient history.
Córdoba oozes antiquity. The city has existed since 169 B.C., and was founded by the Romans. After a lengthy Visigoth rule, Córdoba was captured by the Moors in 711 and turned into not only one of the most stunning cities in Europe, but also one of the richest and most culturally enlightened places on earth, all centred around the Mezquita. Today, Córdoba's location makes it an important hub for the south of the country, sitting between west and east, with the capital Madrid to the north and the thriving Mediterranean resorts along the Costa del Sol to the south east.
Its beautifully varied architecture makes it one of the most picturesque cities in Spain, harbouring a peaceful atmosphere that draws upon the city's visual majesty and fantastic climate to create a warmth and charm that is highly infectious to all who visit, so be warned: if you do not want to be bitten by the Córdoba bug, dose up on culture-protectors before you arrive.
Continue reading: Reality
But it’s not all ancient monuments, delightful architecture and an unchanged way of life. Córdoba is as important and cosmopolitan today as any other Andalusian city. While lacking the international reputation enjoyed by Sevilla, bereft of an airport as busy as Málaga's, and unable to boast Granada's easy access to the Sierra Nevada ski resorts, Córdoba still manages to pull in the tourists.
Boasting areas of gleaming modern infrastructures, a high-speed rail network and excellent road links, the city is a testament to Spain's rapid modernisation since the late 1980s. However, Córdoba remains, on the whole, a grand old city that is full of stunning buildings and captivating vistas in every direction.
Lovers of classic Andalusian and Moorish architecture are in for a rare treat – Córdoba's delightful Old Town is a testament to the brilliance of the human mind: its tightly winding streets, whitewashed walls decorated with hanging flower pots, and the endless number of pretty patios combine to create a centre that is as far removed as possible from the UK's depressingly identikit high streets.
Since the growth of the package holiday tourist, Córdoba has benefited from the secondary knock-on effects of this influx of visitors and now boasts a well-trodden tourist trail while managing to retain its authenticity throughout.
Weather-wise, Córdoba boasts not just Spain’s but the entire continent's highest average annual temperatures, with a summer average of 28ºC and a winter average of 14ºC. During the height of summer, Sevilla is hotter, but Córdoba has plenty of days where the mercury tops 40ºC in June, July, August and September. All year round the city enjoys a clement climate, making for ideal sightseeing conditions pretty much every day of the year, and delivering you – the tourist – dazzling blue skies upon which you can instagram to your heart’s content.
Continue reading: By Day
In ancient times, right around the time Córdoba was growing into an Iberian and Roman powerhouse, water and shade were signs of power and prosperity, much like modern-day conservatories and fancy cars are. If you could escape the searing sun and manipulate a steady water supply, you were made.
Times have changed, but the manifestations of such a mindset haven’t – Córdoba’s ubiquitous patios, which are central to everyday life in the city. Designed to provide shelter and privacy, many used to echo to the sounds of running water manipulated through and around them. The water helped cool the air, and create a peaceful atmosphere. Today, much of these water features are gone, but the patios are a great place for breakfast, lunch, a siesta, evening barbecues and generally cooling off. You will find them dotted all over the city, and they are always a welcome sight.
In between your patio ponderings, you simply cannot miss the Mezquita. First a church, then a mosque, then a Royal Temple, then a cathedral and today a member of the diocese of Córdoba, the Mezquita's rich and varied tenancy history is a result of Córdoba's strategic importance over the centuries. All invading and ruling forces have been drawn to it like a bee to honey, captivated by its beauty and scale, and particularly its adaptability to change. A marked feature of the Mezquita is its giant arches that are supported by 856 columns made of granite, marble, jasper and onyx. Inside, the mihrab forms the focus of the monument's beauty – smoothly constructed and artistically decorated, this internal Garden of Eden captivates visitors from the very moment they step inside.
Equally impressive is the Patio de los Naranjos which is located inside the grounds of the Mezquita and is an ideal spot to take the weight off, enjoy the sun and take stock of the sights you are beholding. Additional treasures inside include the honey-combed dome, the prayer niches and the Renaissance-era nave that is located at the very centre of the structure.
That’s the chief sights done, but the rest are intangibles – the background buzz of contented life, slowed to crawling pace at the height of summer; the tight side streets just ripe for exploring; the intriguing people, going about their daily duties in a manner often unchanged for decades, and the sense of unending history at every step – a day in Córdoba is one that you will never forget.
Continue reading: By Night
They love their festivals in Córdoba. But then so does every Spanish city. If it’s May, then the city comes alive at night even more so than usual with the advent of the annual patio competition (we kid you not), and the May Crosses Festival, which is, simply, a festival that celebrates ornately decorated crosses. Awards are dished out for the most impressive crosses (no Beckham jokes, please), while the larger public crosses form mini hubs of entertainment, delivering local dishes and music for the duration of the festival.
During non-festival months, Córdoba delights with its tapestry of tapas bars, its collection of clubs and its brilliant bodegas. Al fresco dining is a way of life here, more so than in most other places in Spain due to the reliably warm weather, but just remember – don’t even think about throwing on your glad rags until at least 10pm…
By journalist, editor and former Costa del Sol resident, Ian Clover.
